Scotland’s ‘prehistoric’ Basking Sharks inspire awe

We sat perched on the side of Shane’s Redbay `Cearban` dive boat staring in awe at the metre high dorsal fin closing in. Then, on the skipper’s command we slipped quietly into the 13 degree water. Out of the plankton filled gloom heading straight towards us came this enormous swimming mouth.
We were off the three billion year old Island of Coll in Scotland’s Hebrides. Once the haunt of Vikings now there are just 200 hardy Scots, 50 ways to prepare haggis, lots of Grey Seals, a few `hairy coos,` and Shane and Nicky Wasik of `Basking Sharks Scotland`

Ian Sherwood and I had met up with my daughter Rachel in London, headed to Glasgow, took the three hour train journey through the Scottish highlands to the picturesque fishing village of Oban, and caught the ferry to Coll.

"…Day Three turned out to be `Super Tuesday`. One right
from the brochure. The breeze
had died under five knots… I
counted 12 sharks before panic
set in…"

This was my second visit, and though early in the summer season, local fisherman had spotted sharks. So with high hopes we had set out on a glassy sea. Not a shark fin was seen but the marine life was prolific. A swim with the seals was great fun and so was cruising with dolphins, porpoise, orca and minke whales as well as the prolific bird life. This was a rich playground.
Accommodation is a comfortable rented holiday home in the village of Arinagour: one cafe, one store and one hotel full of friendly Scots, good food (haggis wontons) and good beer. In the evenings we strolled around the sheltered harbor looking for otters.

Day One and our first shark was located in Gunner Straight, the channel between Tyree Island and Coll. With four metre tides the current here can fair rip through and even at mid tide it was just too fast to get in the water. It was not till mid-afternoon we had our first swim.

And what an encounter! This nine metre gentle giant came right up, gently brushing me with a tail on the fly by before circling and coming in for another macro. Then opening that huge mouth before returning to work the tide line, sifting huge quantities of plankton. Such a prehistoric creature!

Day Two and we swam with three more sharks. On board were some serious photographers and everyone was after that `mouth wide open` shot. But the vis was only about eight metres and with all the food in the water the sharks would often clam up before coming into focus. That, and perhaps too many excited diver photographers thrashing into position.

"…The smaller sharks, five metres or so, seemed easy to
spook but the XXL models were
inquisitive… I have numerous
photos of their eyes…"

Day Three turned out to be `Super Tuesday`. One right from the brochure. The breeze had died under five knots, and the plankton rose to the surface. At Gunner I counted 12 sharks before panic set in amidst the rush to soap myself into a wetsuit. Eight snorkelers on board so four in the water at any one time. Mostly you would only get the one pass, so five to ten minutes wet then reposition upstream for the B team.
Shane was very careful not to harass any one critter too long, but it was no hardship to find another. At one stage I slipped into the briny to find myself with three lined up.

The smaller sharks, five metres or so, seemed easy to spook but the XXL models didn’t give a rat’s wrinkle.
They were inquisitive. I have numerous photos of their eyes!

With the weather looking fairly ordinary for the next three days, the call was to head back in at 5pm, grab a haggis burger and head for some `Puffin therapy` on the nearby island of Lunga. This was now the end of the breeding season and in one more week both Puffins and Pufflings would be heading out into the Atlantic. The odd one would fly in with beaks stuffed with sand eels and dart down their burrows leaving little time to snap a photo.

A five minute walk brought us to another breeding colony. Thousands of Fulmars and Guillemots with their fluffy chicks covering every available piece of real estate. And aggressive Skua prowling for an opportune meal.

The weather gods intervened the next day and that was the end of basking sharks for us. But there are other attractions. The remarkable Island or Staffa with its famous Fingals cave, too rough to snorkel this time. Tobermoray with its fine single malt castles dotting the landscape, and a search for the huge White Tail Eagle..

Our adventure was topped off with a look at one of many wrecks in the area, a spectacular dive with gardens of anemones covering most surfaces and the dreaded Fan Worm in darker recesses.
We were well looked after by Shane and his team, including the walking encyclopedia that is Luke. I feel the need to return. Maybe a Basking Shark selfie next time!