Guam’s wrecks, wreckage and pristine corals

However, as the departure date neared and the threat of a nuclear attack mounted, friends questioned our choice.

Guam, a US possession in the Northern Marianas islands, is 3.5 hours flight time due south of Japan. Discovered by Ferdinand Magellan in 1521 it was seceded to the US in 1898. With a population of 180,000 souls these days it plays two roles: a honeymoon destination for Japanese, Chinese and Korean visitors, and a major American naval and air force installation. Hence the target threat from North Korea.
A quick call to the dive operator on the island reassured us. No Asian visitors were cancelling upcoming visits due to the threats. Apparently N Korean threats are a part of daily life in S Korea

War history

Guam, along with Wake Island, Midway, Hawaii and the Philippines, were important stopovers for the Pan American China Clipper flights to the Orient in the 1930s and 40’s.

In December 1941, Guam was invaded and occupied by the Japanese from the island bases of Saipan and Tinia, a couple of hundred miles to the north. In 1944 US marines fought a 30 day battle to retake the 518 sq km island, the conflict leaving the island with a legacy of wreck dive sites. (The last Japanese soldier surrendered in 1972 after 28 years in hiding.)

Geography

Guam is straddled by the Philippine Sea on the west coast, and on the more rugged east coast by the Pacific Ocean. A mountainous spine 2,000 metres high separates the two sides of the island. Most people live on the west coast, and that’s where all the dive sites are. Magellan’s landing and remnants of Spanish civilization are at the south end of the island.

Wreck dive sites

A weak low pressure system on the heels of Typhoon Soala limited our diving during our late August visit to the area inside Apra Harbour, which is fortunately the location of many of Guam’s wreck dives.

American Tanker

Is a concrete barge lying at 15m on the north side of Apra Harbour. Sitting upright in sand the wreck invites you inside its cavernous hold and a swim-through of the pilot house. A large flag attached to the pilot house confirms your location. Large coral fans guard the wreck site.

Seabee Junkyard

Is 60m west of American Tanker. The Glass Breakwater was constructed by the US Navy right after WW2 to enlarge and protect Apra Harbour and once complete the area was used as a dumping ground for a variety of equipment: Piping systems, bulldozers, wheeled equipment and small barge tugs. They make this an interesting 10 M dive.  

Gab Gab 2

located on the south side of Apra Harbour. The top of the reef is about 15m and is where large schooling fish can be found. The Atlantis submarine operation - which allows tourists to view the reef - provides food stations there so the fish are quite tame and will swarm around divers. There are several varieties of anemones on the reef, and sponges and soft corals also make this a very interesting dive. Several nurse sharks can be seen around the feeding stations.
One of the more unique dive sites is the Tokai/ Cormoran wrecks. The Cormoran was an armed merchant raider deployed by the Germans in the South Pacific during WW1. She was interned and eventually scuttled by her crew. Twenty seven years later the Tokai Maru, a Japanese freighter, was sunk by a submarine and eventually came to rest on top of the Cormoran.

The Tokai Maru, a very big ship, lies on a steep incline on her port side and is in very good condition. Divers can slowly traverse the entire length of her main deck while staying between 18-24m. Bomb damage can be inspected on the bow with the actual torpedo hole that sunk her in the #4 hold. The shallowest part of the wreck is forward of the bridge, at around 14m, and the deepest deck level is at the stern is in around 24m.

There are at least four depth charges, which look like large barrels, lying in the silt inside the stern on the port side. To reach the Cormoran you descend to its propeller shaft located midway down the Tokai where you can touch both wrecks simultaneously. The midship section is intact, and the engine room easily accessible through the skylights. Most of the superstructure is relatively accessible. The Tokai/ Cormoran site is perfect for NITROX divers

Reef dives

Several reefs comprise the topography of the south side of Apra Harbour. Hidden Reef contains great variety of pristine corals with a gradually sloping wall to 37m. Finger Reef is an extension of Gab Gab lying 30m to the west of that site.

Finger Reefs’ shallowness attracts snorkelers and SCUBA divers. Sea turtles, needlefish, trumpet fish, rainbow runners and small jacks are prevalent around the reef.

In all Guam has over a hundred dive sites to occupy the recreational diver for many days. Regardless of the political situation, a visit to this pleasant island should be on everyone’s wish list.