Giant Cuttlefish Encounter

Encounters of the Giant Cuttlefish kind

If you are like me, you enjoy diving all year round, but some divers in New Zealand would prefer to head off to warmer waters for a tropical holiday in winter, not this guy. I recently joined a Global Dive-organized trip to Adelaide, South Australia, specifically to Whyalla, a four-and-a-half-hour drive north of Adelaide, known for its 12–14-degree water temperatures.
Some of our group had flown over a few days ahead, while others, including myself, opted for an early morning journey to Auckland airport. Carrying three bags filled with dive gear and camera equipment, I left behind New Zealand's cold and wet weather for the cooler, drier climate of Australia. (Why do drysuit divers always need so much gear?)

The drive from Adelaide to Whyalla is pretty breathtaking with huge pink salt lakes, wind farm turbines and open farmlands, roads that go on for miles and dotted in amongst all of this were small towns allowing us to stop from time to time for refreshments and to stretch our legs.

Towards Point Lowry, about a 20-minute drive from Whyalla, is the Stoney Point Cuttlefish Reserve. The unique combination of geological features and oceanic currents at Point Lowly creates an environment rich in nutrients, which, in turn, sustains a diverse range of marine life. For the Giant Cuttlefish, this region offers suitable breeding grounds and an abundance of prey. Thus, it becomes a natural choice for these cephalopods to congregate and reproduce. The Giant Cuttlefish has a short life span, about three years. The Australian Giant Cuttlefish, the largest member of the cuttlefish family, growing up to 1.5 metres in length (5 Ft), is an enigmatic creature renowned for its incredible abilities. They are equipped with a soft, elongated body, large eyes, and a unique internal shell known as a cuttlebone.

These Giants stand out as a true spectacle for divers and marine enthusiasts. Every winter, between May and August, these amazing cephalopods congregate in their tens of thousands to undertake mating.
About thirty years ago, it would have been challenging to find cuttlefish in this area, commercial fishing had almost wiped them out, but since its ban, the cuttlefish population has thankfully recovered into something incredible. Today, around 250,000 cuttlefish are congregating within these waters.
Beneath the crystal-clear waters lies a captivating world teeming with marine wonders. Nudibranchs abound, and majestic jellyfish float past in their dazzling pink displays. Blenny's dart in and out of crevices, bright-coloured starfish graze across the gravely seabed looking for prey, and of course, the most mesmerizing creatures that inhabit these waters, the Giant Cuttlefish (Sepia apama).

Within the shallow waters, just a few fin kicks away from shore, is where we would locate most of the Giant Cuttlefish. The maximum depth I dived to was about 5.6 metres, most above this at around 4 metres. Snorkelers could see these amazing creatures easily within 30 metres from shore. They would hide amongst the weed clumps and move around looking for a mate. The males were a lot larger than the females, and usually, we would find a male guarding his mate under his body from other rival males. At times, up to 7 or 8 other males would try to mate with her, and he would have to defend them.
They mate by linking their eight arms and two tentacles for head-to-head contact, and the males put their sperm packages into the female's mouth to fertilize her eggs. She then lays the eggs and attaches them to a safe place in the rocks here near Whyalla, and in 3-5 months, they hatch. After spawning, Mass mortalities are commonly observed, with the cuttlebones of dead animals washed up onto beaches in large numbers.

Giant Cuttlefish: Masters of Camouflage

One of the most remarkable features of Giant Cuttlefish, in fact with all cephalopods, is their exceptional ability to change colour and texture rapidly, making them masters of camouflage. This unique skill not only helps them blend seamlessly with their surroundings but also serves as a form of communication, allowing them to convey emotions and intentions to other cuttlefish. Smooth bodies can become covered in ridges within a split second, colours flash, and patterns change within the blink of an eye.Sunlight seemed to dance across their bodies and make an array of striking patterns; some large males had what appeared to be battle scars from close combat with other rival males. Yet, they would still try to sneak in unnoticed, and this usually ended up in a massive fight between large rival males locked in battle. They would twist, contort and gyrate through the water. In some instances, ink was squirted out with the water, turning a grey/ black colour momentarily, and the battling males pulled apart. The loser fled into the distance, and the winner retreated to the hiding female again to protect her from other males. Shortly later, the loser would start sneaking in around the dominant male, looking again to try to find the petite female hidden under him.

Giant Cuttlefish are not just masters of disguise; they are also incredibly intelligent creatures. Their large brains, relative to body size, enable them to exhibit complex behaviours, problem-solving skills, and playfulness. Divers often report engaging interactions with these curious cephalopods, making each encounter a memorable experience. I had one large male following me for some time, always coming in and moving out from me, changing his display patterns. I wasn't sure if he was interested in me or wanted to fight me; either way, he had stunning colouration, which glistened in the sun, forming a rainbow of colour across his head and tentacles. I felt oddly calm watching this male flash his displaying colours towards me, almost like he was hypnotizing me for some reason. I watched him, entranced, for a very long time, taking many photos.

While Giant Cuttlefish continue to enchant divers, they face numerous challenges, including habitat loss, pollution, and overfishing. Conservation efforts are crucial to preserving their natural habitat and ensuring the survival of this captivating species. Marine enthusiasts and divers play a vital role in raising awareness about these challenges and advocating for the protection of these magnificent creatures.

Diving into the world of Giant Cuttlefish in Whyalla offers a rare glimpse into the marvels of marine life. The combination of their extraordinary abilities, annual gatherings, and the chance for meaningful interactions makes encountering these creatures an unforgettable experience.

Diving at Point Lowly: A Prerequisite for Witnessing the Spectacle

To witness the mesmerizing world of Giant Cuttlefish at Point Lowly, scuba diving is a must. Here are some essential tips and considerations for divers planning their visit:• Seasonal Timing: Plan your dive trip between May and August to coincide with the peak breeding season.
• Equipment: A drysuit is recommended, but many wear wetsuits while snorkelling. There are few diving shops in Whyalla, so contact them if you want to hire equipment.
• Visibility and Water Conditions: Keep an eye on weather and sea conditions to ensure good visibility underwater.
• Respectful Interaction: Maintain a respectful distance from the cuttlefish to avoid disrupting their natural behaviour. Patiently observe their activities for the best experience.
• Safety: Entry into the water can be slippery.
Adhere to standard scuba diving safety protocols, including proper buoyancy control, monitoring of air supply, and always diving with a buddy.
• Food and water: take plenty of water and food once you have finished your dives. There is very little at Stoney Point; a toilet and changing rooms are about it. Occasionally, there is a coffee cart from which you can get a toasted sandwich.

Conclusion: Guardians of the Underwater Realm

Diving into the world of Giant Cuttlefish at Point Lowly is a profound experience that leaves a lasting impression on divers and marine enthusiasts alike. As we explore and appreciate the beauty of our oceans, we must also commit to protecting the incredible marine life that inhabits them. By practising responsible diving, supporting local conservation initiatives, and spreading awareness about preserving this natural wonder, we can ensure that future generations of divers can continue to marvel at the wonders of Point Lowly and its resident Giant Cuttlefish.Camera equipment used
Olympus TG-6 camera in Olympus PT-59 housing.
Twin Big Blue, Black Molly 2600 lumen video lights
Fantasea UWL400Q Wide Angle Lens

I would like to thank Kate and Kiel Heeks-Purell for running a fantastic trip.
Global Dive always has fantastic dive trips available to like-minded divers. Jess and Nicole from Dive-Experience.com were our awesome guides for the trip. My dive buddy Susan Fromm and all the other awesome crew we had on the trip.