Diving the Scapa Flow
Scapa Flow in the Orkney Islands was a major British naval base during WW1. At war's end, it was agreed to intern the German High Seas Fleet here.
At the end of the World War 1, an agreement was made to intern the German High Seas Fleet at Scapa Flow pending the outcome of the peace negotiations.
On 21 June 1919, the day before the terms were supposed to be announced, Rear Admiral Ludwig Von Reuter gave the order to scuttle his entire fleet to prevent it falling into British hands. Most of the 74 ships did sink with a few remaining afloat and some being run aground by the Royal Navy guard ships.
An enterprising Scotsman, Edward Cox, purchased a number of the wrecks and began salvaging them in 1923. This was a fascinating endeavour and quite a story by itself. By 2014 the “Fleet” is reduced to three battleships, four cruisers – and some other sites such as the turrets and blockships.
The flights to the Orkney Islands in northern Scotland and back took 52 hours of flying time plus our time in seven different airports. Kevin, Andy and I booked our dive gear in at Wellington and that arrived at Kirkwall International airport when we did. A great start to the trip.
An enterprising Scotsman, Edward Cox, purchased a number of the wrecks and began salvaging them in 1923.
Live-aboards are available but we chose a land-based package and were hosted by both The Diving Cellar and Scapa Scuba Diving. We took all our dive gear except cylinders and weights. I had pre-ordered Sorb for the KISS breathers, CCR cylinders, deco cylinders and twins for Andy. The B&B accommodation was very comfortable being a combination of Pub and hostel.
Our days started with a cooked Scottish breakfast and a leisurely wander along to the dive boats through the narrow cobble stone streets of historic and picturesque Stromness village. We dived from two different boats, 22m MV Jean Elaine and 20m MV John L. They were very suitable, large, stable, ex-working vessels with excellent crew, a lot of space, gas filling (air, nitrox & oxygen) onboard and hydraulic lifts to exit the water.
The other divers onboard were friendly and competent. Some used rebreathers and the rest were twin tank divers. Depths varied from about 36m on the battleships to 14m on the blockship Tabarka. Visibility was darkish but we could see detail on the gun breeches quite clearly. We used torches for most of our dives. Air temperature was pleasant and water was around 12 degrees C, very much like the Wellington we had just left.
There was a slight current around the Fleet wrecks so it was not a consideration – apart from the drifting giant jelly fish! The block ships plugged gaps between islands as submarine barriers so were subject to serious tidal movement. Consequently visibility on them was great.
I have dived a lot of shipwrecks but never ships so big. The battleships were 25,300 tons and the cruisers a mere 5000+ tons. The cruisers lay on their sides and in places the weight of their turrets had peeled their decks away from the hull and we could see into the hull. Diving on the battleship superstructure meant being under the decks as these huge ships turned turtle when they sank. Penetration was possible but there was plenty to see on the outsides. For example the two rudders on the SMS Margraf are huge, as are the three propeller tunnels and shafts. Torches were a must but the water was surprisingly clean.
One of the largest battleships, SMS Bayern, was raised in September 1934 but her four 600 ton, twin 15 inch gun turrets stayed firmly in the mud. We dived the two aft upside-down turrets and agreed they were a highlight. The turrets turned on bowling-ball size ball bearings and these are clearly visible within the races. While the 15 inch guns of the 32,200 ton battleship are buried in the mud, the ball bearings, hoists, breeches and turret outlines are easily seen at 36m.
At dives end we either ascended the buoy line or used our SMBs. After our deco stops we surfaced and were picked up by our dive vessel. They came neatly alongside us and stopped so we were next to the lift. This was a joy to use. Stand on it, give the deckhand a nod and we were transported to deck level effortlessly.
At two deco dives a day we never felt stressed or tired. The nineteen dives on ten wreck sites were incident free and the KISS rebreathers performed flawlessly. The group used Shearwater computers including the NERD on one CCR. Cylinders were filled onboard with no fuss. Between dives we were given plenty of time to visit the Lyness museum, cemetery and docks. On our one day off we went relative-hunting in the nearby Orphir historic cemetery courtesy of the Dive Cellar van.
Scapa Flow is a must-do for divers. It is an effort to get there but well worth that effort. The crews, vessels, accommodation, meals and dive shops are first class – but I might just go somewhere warmer next year. Want to come?
Tony Howell owns NZ Sea Adventures in Porirua, Wellington’s technical dive centre. He is the NZ Dealer for KISS Rebreathers and loves Shearwater computers. www.scubadiving.co.nz