Diving in the Zen Zone

When travelling to Europe for a work event, it seemed judicious to tack on a short holiday. Cue some googling of diving destinations in Europe and up popped Cyprus, with Larnaca being the home of the famed Zenobia shipwreck.

The Zenobia, a Swedish ferry which sank on her maiden voyage in 1980, is touted as one of the ‘top ten wreck dives’ in the world. Her sinking was deemed due to a software error causing uneven distribution of ballast, although conspiracy theories involving sabotage by the Israeli secret service and MI6 abound. The Zenobia rests on her port side in 42m of water, and sank with an estimated £200 million worth of cargo and 104 articulated trucks on board. She was never salvaged, so lies as a wreck divers’ paradise only 1500m off the coast of Larnaca. Ben Wrench from Get Wet Divers promised there would be plenty to see within four days of diving.
Fast forward and I was a feeling little bedraggled and jet-lagged when retrieved from my Larnaca Old Town hotel on a muggy Monday Cyprus morning. Gear was hastily set up and re-jigged as we loaded onto the boat for the short ride to the wreck. I was wearing a 7mm wetsuit, which felt something of an overkill as I tumbled inelegantly (I’ve never managed a good strategy for entering from a boat with sidemount) into the 28-degree water.

"Life’s stressors washed away in the blissful alluring blue water with 20+metre visibility.

An outline of the Zenobia was able to be seen from the surface. Our first two dives were no - decompression orientation dives. My first impression was of the overwhelming size of the wreck – she is 172 metres long and 28 metres wide -seemingly endless when swimming along her hull at a depth of about 18m. The imposing prop sitting at 28m was our first stop. Onwards to several lorries anchored to the deck, seemingly precariously perched horizontally. For our second dive we meandered through the cafeteria, with its 1980s era linoleum and forlorn coffee and coke machines, then through the accommodation cabins. The plywood walls have long since disintegrated but toilet bowls and sinks allow you to demarcate where bathrooms once were. I had a tantalizing peak into one of the cargo holds.

"I had a tantalizing peak into one of the cargo holds."

Day 2 we splashed with 29% nitrox as back gas and 50% stages to explore the upper cargo holds. We dropped down a lift shaft and were hit by a fridge-like wall of 22-degree water in the cargo hold – a rather impressive halocline making me grateful for my 7mm wetsuit. The cargo holds held a treat of treasures – lorries hauntingly jumbled in the depths and a forklift still perilously chained to the ‘floor’.

Day 3 held my highlight dives as we ventured into the lower cargo holds. We located the only car on board, the captain’s car, a blue Lada that immediately reminded me of the Weasley’s car in the Harry Potter series (I don’t think I was narced). Other treasures included bundles of blue fabric that I thought could have been a 1980s forerunner to PPE. For the second dive we found the anchor chain locker, then progressed into the crew’s mess and along a befuddling maze of passages. The wreck lying on her side was disorientating but I could imagine many dives of exploring through the confusing corridors.

"More treats were in store in the penultimate day of diving.

First up was the engine room. At 40m depth in the inky darkness, the water was a chilly 21 degrees (hey, it’s all relative!). Various gadgets, rails and gauges eerily protruded, eroded and rusty in the gloom. The second dive was a veritable tiki tour as we revisited the laundry that I’d managed to not notice on an earlier visit, admired some gaudy 1980s wall decorations and then had a tutu behind the cafeteria bar. The 18 minutes of deco we earned on the final dive were well worth it.

Unfortunately, all good things have to come to an end and it was time for my circuitous journey home to Aotearoa. Cyprus is an inviting dive destination on its own or would make a worthwhile addition to any European sojourn. I could happily spend many more dive days delving into the depths of the holds and various enticing corridors and doors I only stared at wistfully.
I dived the Zenobia in September i.e. their summer. I understand the waters cool down over winter. You could dive the Zenobia as a recreational diver (most people do) but given the depths, you’d want to have at least your advanced open water and probably nitrox tickets. Penetration requires tech training. Get Wet Divers will do both recreation and tech diving – Ben is also a tec instructor.