DIVING DUMAGUETE, PHILIPPINES

Having done several UW Photo workshops in the past with Bluewater Dive and Photo, based out of California. I jumped at the chance to go on a short notice trip to Dumaguete on Negros Oriental in the Philippines in July 2023.

At Dumaguete airport our recently gathered US based group ( I was the token foreigner ) were met by friendly, efficient staff from Atlantis Resort, dive bags and camera gear were carefully stowed in 2 vans and welcome chilled water bottles handed round. It was a 45 min road trip to the resort. The drive gave me a chance to catch my breath and take in some of the sites around, abundant greenery, people everywhere, bikes, scooters and people carriers of every shape and description...oh and wires suspended haphazardly between random poles like licorice spaghetti...

Anyway...a small roadside sign indicated our destination and we turned off the main road and wound our way down an unsealed drive, through security gates to a hidden paradise literally sitting at the waters edge. Welcoming staff saw to our luggage and handed out tropical fruit drinks. Dive gear was hung and placed in assigned lockers and camera gear placed in the dedicated a/c camera room, with allotted spaces, and wonderful facilities...lights, compressed air, power points, towels etc.

We all gathered for a run down of how the days were set up, dive times , meal times …the location of the spa, you know, the important stuff... as there were 16 of us in total, including visiting ambassador and photographer Marty Snyderman, we were divided into 4 groups of 4, with a guide per group. We were served an early-ish dinner in the superb onsite restaurant, and left to our own devices to prepare for the coming days of dive, eat, dive, eat, sleep repeat. I took the opportunity to grab the land camera and check out the surrounding gardens for tropical blooms and beasties..as the sun set behind hills close by there wasn't much chance of stunning sunset shots, BUT the next morning would surely bring wonderful sunrise pics...Yeah..nah.. early morning drizzle put paid to that idea.

So, after a good nights sleep in the wonderfully appointed rooms, breakfast from 6.30 on, first dive was at 8.30, second at 10.45, lunch. Yummy, third at 2.30 ish and night dives if conditions suited. Most dives were within 10 mins of the resort, by small covered boat, and only one group per site. Nitrox for those qualified, and all your gear carried, so very easy really.
As usual with Bluewater trips, everything is arranged to give you maximum dive time, easy in and out of the water, help where help is needed and plenty of fun. With 29 degree water and a minimum of suiting required it all adds up to effortless diving.
Most dives start in 5 m of water and slope down to a reef man-made or natural, max 25 metres. Varying substrates, mostly sand but some fine gravel and occasional weedy patches provided plenty of different critter biotopes.

The area is known for it's "muck diving " which is not as bad as it sounds.. basically it means there's loads of small life in the wafting detritus on the seabed, squid, octopi, nudis, leaf fish, pipefish ,. There wasn't a lot of pelagic life (probably cos I'm head down most of the time ) but boy, there is so much to see. Art, our knowledgeable guide, pointing out previously mentioned "Wishlist " items, who needs sharks etc.?.. Ho Hum.

Number one on my list was Nembrotha Kubaryana, a particularly iridescent nudi, and any frog fish. It was necessary to keep a weather eye out for nasties and bities, they are all here, abundant small Lionfish, Blue ring Octopus, Cone shells, Fire coral and Urchins, and interestingly, no gloves allowed! The reason behind the No Gloves policy was to resist the temptation to touch. The local authorities are very aware of the precious resource they are looking after.

Dive sites with interesting names like Masaplod, Ginama An , Dauin Nth, Sahara, Atlantis filled the next few days. Unfortunately we lost a day to a nearby tropical storm, with the coast guard grounding all craft for 24 hrs. Mark Strickland the tour leader squeezed in an extra workshop on this day, as well as a show and tell meet. Because it was a photo-centric trip, there were daily talks on technique, how to improve your photography, post processing etc. All given in the well set up lecture room.

On day 5 we went on a pre-arranged big boat trip to nearby Apo Island, a marine reserve. We had 2 dives here, Chapel Point , a big wall and a sheltered bay on the leeward side of the island. Interspersed with a fantastic BBQ lunch served by the crew, and local craftspeople selling clothing etc from canoes expertly paddled amongst the various tourist boats. The highlight of this sub-trip were the Giant Frogfish and Banded Sea Krait seen together.
By now Nembrotha Kubaryana were passe, and wonderful anemones and inhabitants were like Oh yeah.. that's nice...yawn been there, done that.
The homeward trip was interesting as I cast slightly nervous glances at the bamboo outriggers held on by cable ties and fishing line, but I was assured there was little to worry about as it was replaced frequently when the bamboo rotted out...!

The next day , Friday , was our last diving day and I had pre booked a trip to see the whale sharks in Oslob, on nearby Cebu island.
An early breakfast before piling into vans once more for the 40 min trip to the car ferry , thru early morning traffic (there's always traffic ) where giving way is a "loose " concept, driving onto the ferry for the 30 min trip across the strait, then another 30 mins to BCDs resort.

We were treated to an orientation talk, assigned a group number and told to wait for our number to be called. Compulsory lifejackets, no strobes, snorkels only and 8 people per canoe.
Eventually our turn arrived and we were paddled out to the site to form up in a 'U ' shape we slip into the water and filmed away.

We spent about 30 minutes in the water with these gentle giants of the deep, we were in very close proximity, before being called back to shore.

If you've not seen these magnificent creatures before, it truly is humbling and mind blowing. For me, having swum with them in Galapagos and Sea of Cortez in natural surroundings, it felt a little hurried and contrived, but that's just me. It brings in much needed money to the local population and they do have the whale sharks welfare first and foremost.

The homeward trip was a little longer due to the later hour, but back at the resort it was time for that awful process of packing up everything ready for the return trip on the morrow.A last excellent dinner, review of images, share stories with fellow divers, and a walk along the black sand beach taking pictures of random cows, dogs and the best sunset of the week, before retiring to update the diary and mull over the past weeks wonders.

The next morning is all about settling bills, grabbing a last breakfast, re-packing the gear, saying thankyou to guides and new friends and dive buddies and secretly envying those staying for 10 days. 3 flights later I'm back in chilly Christchurch and wondering...did that really happen...?

Atlantis resort is a wonderful place to explore the local sea fauna, wonderful food and accommodation, friendly staff and did I mention great food...? Bluewater Dive Travel always arranges great trips and has the knowledge to back it up with experts on hand to help your photographic journey  ....I'm already thinking of my next winter trip...somewhere warm and wet.